Saturday, April 16, 2011

High Tea Terror

Breakfast Cocotte at Cassis

The Cake Boys

Melissa Colomb
A fabulous South African pastry chef friend from the UK suggested we have a look at some patisseries and cake shops on his recent visit to Cape Town.  A great idea to look at what is available to the consumer wanting to indulge in a sweet treat, buy a cake for a tea party or birthday or simply to have a cup of coffee and an accompanying sweet snack.  My suggestion was to finish the day with a High Tea and leading up to that scan some of the retail/coffee shop outlets which are either very popular destinations or well reviewed.  Our route: Melissa's Newlands, Cassis (right next door), Asara wine farm, Mila's Cake Shop in Stellenbosch and then finally to a full High Tea at The Table Bay Hotel. We started off having a look at what Melissa's has to offer.  I mentioned in my Christmas blog that Melissa's does present beautifully and the easter table created an excitement for the easter treats we love over this period and the shop is enticing.  However, the cakes do not eat as well as one would hope considering their cost and appearance.  I saw something new that i didn't know about before called "colomba" but on tasting it was dry and oily.  According to Wikipaedia: "The dough for the Colomba is made in a similar manner to panettone, with flour, eggs, sugar, natural yeast and butter; unlike panettone, it usually contains candied peel and no raisins. The dough is then fashioned into a dove shape (colomba in Italian) and finally is topped with pearl sugar and almonds before being baked. 

So on research i figure if you are going to make something so traditional, make sure it is true to the tradition or call it something else.  For example, one cant make a Sacher Torte without good dark chocolate and apricot jam and call it a Sacher Torte.  More of this later....
This is what a traditional Colomba looks like - note the top

Next Stop Cassis and this gets my by best cake shop rating in Cape Town and holds up against many pastisseries i have experienced in France and London.  The quality of the ingredients is excellent.  Real butter, real couverture chocolate, beautifully decorated by skilled pastry chefs and delivers what it promises.  I don't think it is expensive given the quality and presentation and clearly nor do the customers.  Just observe a saturday morning at Cassis and you will see there is no shortage of patronage.  We decided to have breakfast to balance out the sugar we were to face later in the day and were delighted by the cocotte, croque monsieur and the coffee was delicious too.  This is the example we need to have for any further patisserie entrepeneurs.

Next Stop ASARA wine farm and Hotel.  Here you will find a beautiful setting albeit a little contrived, a fine dining restaurant and a kitchen and chocolate shop with very desirable items from food to porcelain and french cooking pots.  Asara make their own icecream and chocolates and also have some pastries which are light, authentic and fresh. I like that they are combining wine, chocolate, kitchenware and have a demo kitchen where you can watch the creation of food and learn.  I thought their slabs of chocolate were cleverly named and provide an original gifts.  I especially like the fact that they were using African Single Origin Chocolate and not Indonesian and Paraguan. We tasted some wine whilst watching a black swan glide by and were ready for our next stop Mila's Cake Shop.
Handcrafted African Single Origin Chocolate



Wine tasting at Asara
Mila's Cake Shop was supremely disapointing. The decor and view of the shop from the outside is charming and very enticing but the product inside was not worth the price and even if cheaper I would not choose to eat it.  If one is to tout oneself as an Artisan bakery with a cute, pink cake shop on a leafy street in Stellenbosch which has its fair share of award winning restaurants and foodies and gourmet markets, why use cheap chocolate, dubious decorations and an array of mediocre to bad pastry making.  Back to my Sacher Torte quibble.  Mila's cake shop should rename thiers as dense, overly rich, bad chocolate cake.






The finale of the day was looming and back to Cape Town to have High Tea at The Table Bay Hotel.  This is a five star establishment and demands high prices and I am not sure how, but seems to be voted one of  Cape Towns best High Tea experiences.

I am not going to go into too much detail except to say that the Mad Hatters Tea Party Theme didn't really work.  Where oh where is the classic high tea gone.  The scones were good but the cream sweetened.  Cream on a scone is to counteract the sweet jam not add more sweetness.  The muffins looked like an afterthought, a plop of batter in huge paper case.  Savoury won over sweet by far.  The cucumber and salmon sandwiches were good enough and the quiches were tasty.

I really have nothing to say about the sickly sweet, garish colours, bad ingredient cakes and desserts on the high tea table except that for all 5 of us we could have lived without them.  Nothing was memorable, classic or innovative and please explain why you would want to make a swiss roll from a carrot cake with no cream cheese in the room! 




wholewheat scone, plain scone and that other thing is a muffin!


Jelly powder decoration on a lemon tart !

Please can one of the Cape Town Hotels go back to a classic English high tea with quality baking, classic nostalgic cakes and pastries, simple but fresh savouries.  Where is the classic Chiffon, Classic Chocolate Cake, Black Forest done like the Germans do it, strawberry shortcake and please can we have some pretty Petit Fours.  I am sure some South African classics would work too since it is a tourist hangout.  No milk tart, no koeksusters and some Hertzoggies would have been delightful.  I am thinking that 5 Star Hotels may need a Food Trend Analyst to assist in their High Tea planning.  I am more than happy to help! Oh and a glass of bubbly for High Tea would not go unappreciated and perhaps a sneaky Sherry in Winter.  Just a suggestion!

Tuesday, December 14, 2010

Food to buy this Christmas

I spent a few hours in delis, Melissa's, Pick n' Pay, Checkers and Woolworths to see what has been launched to make our feasts delicious, fun and well Christmassy.  In general, I was very disappointed.  Although there is a lot of tinsel and shiny stars adorning shelves and surrounding the aisles there is very little Christmas fare launched just for Christmas.  Pick n Pay was the most disappointing.  Other than some not very nice looking Christmas cakes and mince pies there was no other Christmas themed bakery or dessert products.  Checkers was as dismal however, I found this Whiskey cake which looked like a nice stocking filler for a dad or a grandpa.  Perhaps you could match it up with a bottle of Glenfiddich.
Whisky Cake from Glenfiddich 


Melissa's Christmas wreaths are lovely - but Pricey!
Melissa's Christmas fare was very pretty and the display was festive and everything is beautiful wrapped and displayed, but where does she get those prices.  These Candy Cane Biscuits were R32 for 3 tiny little biscuits with a bit of sugar icing.  The cannot cost more than R5 to make!  I get very tired of being ripped off for novelty.  Melissa needs to realise that rich people are rich because they do not spend their money so stupidly.

These looked lovely and great to be able to buy only 1 for a treat for yourself and not a 6 pack
Woolworths is the only retailer who has some Christmas cheer and i found some really stunning meat and Poultry products worth buying but I still feel that across the categories it is a pretty poor show.  Perhaps South Africans don't 
buy into Christmas food shopping enough for the retailers to warrant the volume. Perhaps its too early and the really exciting stuff will come next week.
How can this cost R32!
Jammy Stars for the kids. 
So...from Woolies I liked their range of whole birds smoked.
Lightly Smoked Turkey
Melissa's Christmas Wreaths
 I also like their Free Range Duck stuffed with chicken and yummy things.  This is ready to roast and makes preparing duck so much easier.  It also guides you well on how to cook it if you are not used to cooking duck.  I will definitely be buying this.  Depending on weight it is around R150.
Lightly Smoked Chicken
 Don't forget to buy a corned beef and Woolies have the best.  It is great if you have a crowd and is awesome cold on sarnies.  You can layer left over turkey and corned beef for a christmassy club sandwich instead of using bacon. 

I didn't find anything new in terms of Christmas cake or mince pies or stollen, but i loved their mini Christmas selection which is really great for a christmassy bite without the heaviness of some of these Christmas specialities.  I find a nibble of Christmas cake, marzipan and plastic icing quite enough and this pack is reasonably priced at R50 and is great for a granny present or if you want to bring a slight christmassy end to your dinner or lunch.   A few on  plate for an afternoon tea party round this time of year is also well worth the spend.  The stollen was a bit dry but quite edible.

the Yule Log is back and was a great success last year, so if you have missed it go and indulge.  Same old in terms of other desserts though.  Does no-one get bored of the bulk trifle and bulk profiterole.  Is it that good?
Lastly the cheese dome is a nice hostess gift on the shelves and at a good price.

Enjoy Christmas and I will be searching the tables for interesting holiday feasts.

Wednesday, December 8, 2010

Just thought I would share my 2 favourite concepts before i head off for lunch.  The food Customization trend is getting legs and although not in SA quite yet, I would love to be able to interact with both these sites:

www.graze.com

and

www.mymuesli.com  (there is an option to read the site in English)
My article in the Sunday Times this past Sunday.

Friday, December 3, 2010

The Test Kitchen

Last night was definitely not good for the waste line, but extremely good for the soul and the excitement of experiencing truly great cuisine.  Luke Dale Roberts' Test Kitchen completely lives up to expectations.  At the Biscuit Mill, in a very intimate space, you can see and almost touch the chefs as they literally perform for the diners.  The operation is slick, the service excellent, the sommelier delightful and very knowledgeable.  There were about 20 people dining last night.  Our table of 8 had the 7 course tasting menu.  We started off with a fabulous cocktail: Saki and Elderberry Mojito. Each couple brought a great bottle of wine and we were all quite excited at Michael Le Borgne's contributions of a Meerlust Pinot Noir 1998 and Meerlust Merlot 1989!  Both were excellent. We were all quite pleased with my choice of the Cape Point Semillon.  Well worth a try!  What made the evening for me special was the complete unpretentiousness of fine dining.  The focus was the food, not the personalities of the chefs.  The innovation in ingredient combinations sometimes worked and other times almost worked, but every dish was spoken about and discussed with interest and amazement by our table of foodies.  I can say no more than to go to the Test Kitchen for an unforgettable evening.

Beetroot Mousse, Slow Cooked Baby Beets, Lemon and Thyme puree, Horseradish and mixed nut crumble, fennel confit, Puff shards

Pan Seared scallops with Miso, Peas, Broad Beans and Peppermint

Trout Tartare, Green apple, lime, Creme fraiche, miso cured aubergine, flat parsely, creamy miso dressing

Quail in three ways, languoustine, liquorice jus, miso, corn and ginger emulsion, lime gremolata

Luke plating up

Such a great team of chefs



What a beautiful Piece of art.  I love the pea shoots!

Dessert of Lemon Tart with Nectarine and Elderflower.  so fresh but no shortage of a sweet end to the meal.

Tuesday, November 30, 2010

November Chefs Table - an update on the menu

Crystallum by Peter Allen Finlayson - Incredible Chardonnay and Pinot Noir

Mushroom and Truffle Custard, Garlic Emulsion and Sauteed Mushroom Salad

Momfuku Ramen

Michael's Charcuteri Platter - Brawn, Duck Rillette, Venison Pie, Curry Chicken Liver Pate

Chermoula Marinated Lamb Loin, Summer Bean Cassoulet, Butternut Fondant, Green Pea Puree and Seasonal Vegetable Salad

Speculoos Cookie with Poached Pear, Vanilla Pecan Ice Cream and Gianduya Cream

Tuesday, November 23, 2010

November Chefs Table

Follow this link http://www.spatula.co.za/the-7th-floor/ to read about our October Chefs Table.  Tomorrow is the next one and it seems like all the bells and whistles are being brought out of the bag.

We have Jodi-ann Pearton, Foodcorp/Sunday Times chef of the year, cooking with Michael Le Borgne.  We are attempting to make the Momofuku Ramen Bowl and will be revealing encapsulated olive oil.  I will upload the photos tomorrow and tell more about the evening.  We have an esteemed guest list as well as our CEO and Senior management so it all hands on deck to make this the best and final chefs table of the year.

These were the two dishes i loved at Momfuku in New York and we will see how Michael's Ramen version is in comparison. We have David Chang's book so we hope it works out.

Monday, November 1, 2010

The last word on NYC

Frozen Joghurt

Automated mini bun maker on the street

The greatest coffee

cupcakes and coffee
I felt it important to finish off on NYC as I had another 4 days in NYC since my last entry of eating and tasting and experiencing.  I think StreetFood is a trend worldwide.  These NYC style vans are appearing all over the world, with Delicious magazine featuring it in their last issue.  However, the food needs to compete with the trendy coffee shop and the hip sandwich bar.  In NYC the food out of the vans was fantastic.  There is almost anything available from a van and if you need any confirmation that great food on the go is hip and happening, all you need to do is stand and watch the queues at each of these vans.  Dim Sum to MeatBalls to Noodle Van Bars its all available on the street and it comes to you.  I will be watching the development of street food and I think it is important to note that street food is not only cultural food like Indian or Asian.  These days it can be anything!

Heavenly Flavours of Squash and Honey and Ricotta


I wanted to share one of the most exciting trends in NYC that I ate quite a bit of.  MEATBALLS.  The Meatball Shop is sublime, so delicious, so simple.  I am always impressed when the quality and flavour of something so simple can excite the palate and the  mind.  It is comfort food yes but I saw it all over the place.  One of the best dishes i had in New York was at abc kitchen with jean-georges. He prides himself on organic and describes his restaurant as: "passionately committed to offering the freshest organic & local ingredients possible".  I had 4 dishes at this amazingly decorated restaurant.  All the tables are from reclaimed wood, the dishes are handmade "wonky wear" style.  The wines are all organic and the menu changes as the season demands.  I had honey roasted Kombucha squash with Ricotta on Toast (this was not just any toast). I then tried their tuna sashimi and it was so good - just look how fresh it is.  Then i ordered the simplest dish but was so delicious: organic corn off the cob with flavoured butter and parmesano and herbs.  Lastly, the best meal in NYC that I ate on my 7 days there:  Bowtie Pasta, Kasha, Veal Meatballs and Sour Cream with fresh herbs.  On the plane back whilst reading Elle magazine, I was delighted to see that they thought this dish was the best too. Follow this link to see more of Jean-Georges restaurant: http://www.abchome.com/systemPage/services/restaurants/abckitchen/tabid/893/Default.aspx